Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.